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    PROJECTS ONLINE: REFACING CABINETS

    Project Difficulty: Moderate
    Estimated Project Time: Varies with the quantity of cabinetry to be refaced

     
     
    Tools and Materials:

    Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
    Paint scraper
    Sandpaper of various grits
    Wood putty
    Putty knife
    Paint, as needed
    Wood veneer or plastic laminate
    Adhesive, as needed
    Unfinished replacement doors and drawer fronts
    Spring or C-clamp
    Utility knife
    Steel straightedge
    Laminate or wallpaper roller
    Wood stain
    Clear polyurethane
    Door hinges and drawer and door pulls
    1" wood screws
    Power drill and bits

    Handsaw
    NIOSH-approved respirator

     
           

    Refacing the fronts and sides of existing cabinets with wood veneer or plastic laminate can improve the appearance of many kitchens. If the cabinets are basically sound, it's an easy way to give your kitchen an entirely new look.

    The process of refacing cabinets usually entails replacing doors and drawer fronts, especially if the surfaces of the old ones would be difficult to cover with veneer (see below).

    Although using veneers and new door and drawer fronts is more expensive than just refinishing or repainting the existing cabinets, the material cost is still much less than the price of new cabinetry. The decision to reface cabinets also provides the opportunity to add features such as glass, new hardware, or matching fronts for appliances.

     

     
     
    1. Strip the Cabinets

    Remove the doors, drawers, and hinges from the existing cabinets, and then remove the hardware from the drawer fronts. (Fig. 1)

    Scrape and sand off the old finish on the cabinet sides and face frames. Fill holes, gouges, and scratches with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the filled areas with 150-grit sandpaper.

    If desired, paint the cabinet interiors.

    2. Apply the Veneer

    Lay out the veneer on a smooth surface. Measure an area to be covered, adding 1/4 inch to each dimension. Mark the veneer accordingly, and then cut it with a utility knife guided along a steel straightedge.

    Remove the paper backing or apply appropriate adhesive to the back of the veneer. Attach the veneer first to the sides of the cabinets, then to the front vertical frames, and lastly to the front horizontal frames.

    Carefully trim the veneer with a utility knife, and sand the rough edges after each application.

    Roll all the veneered surfaces using a laminate or wallpaper roller. (Fig. 2)

    3. Apply the New Finish

    Stain the new doors and drawer fronts to match the veneer on the cabinets. When the stain has dried, cover it with three coats of clear polyurethane. If you want the look of natural wood, omit the stain and use only the polyurethane. Sand lightly between each finish coat. (Fig. 3)

    4. Attach the Door Hinges

    Lay the doors on a smooth surface. Attach the new hinges, setting one 2 inches down from the top edge of each door and another up 2 inches from the bottom edge of each door.

    Mark the location of the screw holes. If the hinges will be concealed, lay the doors face down. If the hinges will be visible, lay the doors face up. Drill pilot holes partway into the wood, and then align and screw the hinges onto the doors.

    Hold each door in the appropriate opening, and then mark the hinge locations on the cabinet face frame. Be sure each door overlaps its opening by an equal distance on all four sides. Leave approximately 1/8 inch between doors covering a single opening. Drill the pilot holes in the face frame, and then hang the doors.

    Lastly, install the door handles, drawer pulls, and other selected hardware. (Fig. 4)

    5. Prepare the Drawer Fronts

    Clamp the existing drawer boxes face down on a worktable to saw off any overhanging edges. If the drawers have false fronts, simply remove and discard them. (Fig. 5)

    6. Attach the New Drawer Fronts

    Lay a new drawer front face down on the worktable, and then center a trimmed drawer box over it. Be sure that the overlap is even all the way around the perimeter of the box front.

    Drill pilot holes through the drawer box and partway into the back of the new face panel. Be careful not to drill through the drawer face (use a block stop). Then screw the panel and box together. (Fig. 6)

    Attach pulls or handles to the new face panel to complete the installation.

     
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