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Plastic laminates are a popular choice for kitchen countertops because they are durable, reasonably stain resistant, and relatively inexpensive (starting at about $1.25 a square foot for 1/16-inch-thick counter material; $15 to $25 per linear foot installed). Also, there are hundreds of options, including different patterns and textures.
Post-form countertops have the laminate preglued to a particleboard platform, complete with backsplash and a curved, front edge. They save you a lot of finishing work, but they might not fit every design; if not, you'll need to make your own countertop and glue the laminate yourself.
Even though it can be easier than installing other types of countertops, such as granite, installing laminate can be tricky. The sticking point--literally--is contact cement. This glue is applied to mating surfaces, and when they make a firm connection, they are permanently attached. There is no maneuvering room the way there is with most glues.
Another difficulty with laminate is its hardness. You need this durability on counters, but the brittle sheets chip unless cut with very sharp tools. To avoid exposing the dark substrate material under the color surface, countertops and edgings normally are installed with a small overlap, and then trimmed to a fine joint with a router. But if your bit does not have a ball-bearing guide, friction from the high-speed rotation is likely to scorch the edge. And if you push the router fast enough to avoid scorching, the joint is likely to chip. It takes practice. Color-through laminates cost more but eliminate dark seams. They still chip if you drop a heavy pot, but the damage isn't as noticeable.
Plastic laminate has good resistance to staining, moisture, and abrasion, but a pan hot off the burner will leave a scorch mark that is usually impossible to patch. Also, repeated knife cuts, though small and shallow, eventually discolor and create a cloudy area.
The following are guidelines on how to install plastic laminate to a countertop that already has the particleboard subsurface installed.
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1.
Cut Laminate to Size
Trim laminate to size by scoring the rigid material with a utility knife or a special laminate-scoring tool. (Fig. 1)
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2.
Snap Off Excess
Clamp a straightedge just beyond your score line. Work on a sound, flat surface, and snap off the excess. (Fig. 2)
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3.
Apply the Adhesive
Use a paintbrush to brush contact cement onto the back of the edging strip and onto the edge of the counter. (Fig. 3)
Caution: Read adhesive label cautions. Use contact cement only in a well-ventilated area. Exposure to its fumes can irritate your nose, throat, and lungs, and fumes of some types will explode if ignited. Contact cement can also irritate your skin if not washed off with soap and water. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when handling contact cement. A NIOSH-approved respirator is also recommended. Local codes may require latex-based, VOC-compliant cement.
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4.
Roll the Edge Strip
Carefully position the edge strip over the double-thick plywood counter edge and press into place. Use a rubber roller to roll the strip firmly onto the counter edge to ensure good adhesion. (Fig. 4)
Note: You must place the laminate in exactly the right spot the first time because the contact cement will not allow you to reposition it.
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5.
Position the Main Sheet
Use a paint roller with a cover approved for contact cement. Apply the adhesive to the main laminate sheet and to the counter's particleboard surface.
When the cement is dry to the touch, set thin lattice strips over the counter while you position the main sheet. Then remove the strips in sequence, and press the laminate in place over the particleboard to work out any bubbles. (Fig. 5)
Roll a rubber roller over the laminate surface to ensure that it is properly seated.
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6.
Trim the Edge Joints
Use a router to trim laminate edge joints. Use a beveled bit with a ball-bearing guide wheel to avoid scorching the laminate. (Fig. 6)
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