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Project Difficulty:
Difficult
Estimated
Project Time: 5 days
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Framing:
2 pcs. 2 x 12 x 16' (for beams)
2 pcs. 2 x 12 x 12' (for beams)
10 pcs. 2 x 8 x 12' (for shorter joists)
16 pcs. 2 x 8 x 14' (for 4 outside joists, 8 full-length joists, and 4 angled joists)
6 pcs. 2 x 8 x 16' (for 2 ledgers, 4 headers, and 1 stair backing)
1 pc. 1 x 10 x 6' (for stair backing pack-out piece)
Decking:
30 pcs. 5/4 x 6 x 14'
26 pcs. 5/4 x 6 x 16'
Fascia:
4 pcs. 1 x 10 x 14'
Railing:
8 pcs. 2 x 6 x 10' (for 15 posts, 52-1/2" long)
1 pc. 2 x 4 x 16' (for bottom rail for front of deck)
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2 pcs. 2 x 4 x 14' (for bottom rail for left side and front of deck)
1 pc. 2 x 4 x 12' (for bottom rails for right side of deck)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 12' (for top rail for right side of deck)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 14' (for top rail for front of deck)
2 pcs. 2 x 6 x 16' (for top rail for left side and front of deck)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 12' (for rail cap for right side of deck)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 14' (for rail cap for front of deck)
2 pcs. 2 x 6 x 16' (for rail caps for left side and front of deck)
103 pcs. 2 x 2 x 36" (for balusters)
22 pcs. 2 x 3 x 5-1/2" (for optional railing blocks)
Stairs:
1 pc. 2 x 12 x 8' (for stringers)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 12' (for treads)
2 pcs. 2 x 4 x 8' (for posts and top rails)
1 pc. 2 x 6 x 8' (for stair rail cap)
2 pcs. 2 x 2 x 8' (for balusters)
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Hardware:
4 elevated post bases, 3-1/2" wide, with 5-1/8" x 5" threaded rod supports for the beam footings
35 lag screws and washers for installing ledger-board pieces
32 joist hangers for 2x8
4 double joist hangers for 4x8
4 angled joist hangers for 2x8
4 angle brackets
5 pounds of 1-1/4" deck screws, for joist hangers
3 pounds of 2" deck screws
25 pounds of 2-1/2" deck screws
3 pounds of 3" deck screws
120 lag bolts, 5/8" diameter x 6" long, with washers and nuts, for ledger and posts
3 mending or truss plates, 6" x 12"
58 lag bolts, 1/2" diameter x 4" long, for beam
10d hot-dipped galvanized common nails
Masonry:
Concrete for 6 footings
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6 concrete tube forms
Other Materials:
1 sheet of 1/2-inch-thick, 4' x 8' pressure-treated plywood as spacer
4-inch-wide scrap lumber for baluster spacers
Line level
Water level (optional)
Framing square
Pencil
Chalk
Drill/driver
Felt paper for ledger, as needed
Cedar siding, as needed
Flashing
Portable circular saw
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This deck is simple to build and provides ample space at a reasonable cost. Its basic rectangular shape may not be showy, but it provides plenty of room for barbecuing equipment, dining furniture, and a play area for children. (Fig. 1)
The railing has a few decorative cuts that are easily added. These include nipped corners on the ends of the railing caps, and bevel cuts on each end of the balusters and one end of the posts. The entire deck is constructed of pressure-treated lumber, which will last for many years needing minimal maintenance. The support beam is recessed three feet under the deck to make the tube footings less visible.
Because this site is relatively flat, the deck shown was designed without using posts: a built-up beam made of doubled 2x12s was rested directly on top of the concrete footings. To do this, you must pour the footings level with each other--something you don't need to worry about if you use posts.
The two sliding door bays require some variation in the framing; the ledger must be jogged around them, and a few of the joists need to be angle-cut.
A final note before you build: The dimensions given on the drawings accompanying this project are for a deck built at a specific location (Fig. 2, a through d). It is unlikely, for example, that your house has door bays exactly like the ones shown. For your deck, use the dimensions given as an example only. Measure and cut the framing members to fit as you build, adjusting the dimensions as needed.
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1.
Install the Ledger
Mark a ledger line that is 1-3/4 inches below the surface of the interior floor at the threshold. Be sure that all the ledger pieces are level with each other.
Install the ledger, using a method appropriate to your house. The ledger is a common trouble spot because rain and snow can collect between it and the house and do damage to both.
There are five common methods for attaching a ledger. Your inspector may insist on a particular procedure:
a) For flat surfaces like siding or masonry: Place felt paper behind the ledger, and then attach the ledger very tightly against the house so that water cannot seep behind it. Then flash over it. This works well if you can really squeeze the ledger tightly to the house. (Fig. 3)
b) For flat or beveled horizontal siding: Cut out a section of siding, and fit the ledger into it, providing flashing that forces water to run down the face of the ledger. (Fig. 4)
c) For beveled horizontal siding: Take a piece or two of cedar siding of the same shape as the house siding, and install it upside down, thereby producing a plumb house surface. Install the ledger against this plumb surface, and flash it. (Fig. 5)
d) For flat surfaces: Install several hot-dipped galvanized washers or specially shaped pieces of pressure-treated lumber behind the ledger at each lag screw. This provides a space between the ledger and the house so that water runs easily between them and can dry out between rains. (Fig. 6)
e) For stucco or masonry surfaces: Cut a channel above the ledger into which flashing can be inserted. (Fig. 7)
As shown in Figure 2a, there is no need to miter the ends of the ledger-board pieces for a perfect fit; the point is to provide a continuous, adequate nailing surface for the decking.
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2.
Dig and Pour Footings
Lay out the footings as shown in Figure 2a, and install tube forms. Be certain that the four footings for the doubled beam will all be level with each other, using a water or line level. The two footings for the stair should be just above grade and should be level with each other. As soon as you have poured the concrete, place the post-base threaded rods in the center of each of the beam footings; use a string line to make sure they are lined up with each other.
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3.
Install the Beam
The beam consists of doubled 2x12s with 1/2-inch pressure-treated plywood as a spacer (to bring the beam to 3-1/2 inches thick). Build the beam by ganging the 2x12s and plywood together using 1/2-inch diameter x 4-inch long lag bolts, two every 12 inches on center. Stagger the splices. Cut the beam to the length of the ledger, plus 3 inches.
Once the concrete is firmly set, thread the post bases onto the threaded rods, and then have one or two people help you place the beam into the post bases. Nail the beam to the bases, using 10d hot-dipped galvanized common nails.
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4.
Attach the Outside Joists
Attach the two doubled outside joists, made from 14-foot 2x8s, to the ledger, resting them on the beam. These extreme outside joists are 3 inches longer than the others will be. Attach one joist on the outside edge of the ledger and the other on the inside corner (see Fig. 2); gang-nail the joists together.
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5.
Lay Out the Joists
Cut the four pieces of 16-foot 2x8s that will form your doubled header joist so that they will butt on each doubled outside joist as shown in Figure 2a.
Temporarily attach the header joists to the ledger as shown in Figure 8, and mark the header and ledger at the same time for joists. Use a framing square and level or other straightedge to mark the sections of ledger that are set back.
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6.
Install the Joists
Attach joist hangers to both the ledger and header. Next, install the six longest joists; double the two center joists. Slip the six 14-foot 2x8s into the joist hangers on the ledger, and rest them on the beam. Attach the double header to the six joists.
Next, cut the four angled joists to fit, using 14-foot 2x8s.
Measure individually for the ten remaining joists, cut them from 12-foot 2x8s, and install them.
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7.
Attach the Fascia
Cut the 1x10 fascia to cover the doubled outside joists and doubled header joist. Don't worry about getting the corners tight--they will be covered by the railing posts. Attach the fascia using 2-inch deck screws.
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8.
Provide Backing for Stair Stringers
Cut a piece of 16-foot 2x8 to 31-1/2 inches. Use truss plates, as shown in Figure 9, to attach the 2x8 backing under the rim joist.
Rip a piece of 6-foot 1x10 to 6-1/2 inches wide, and cut it to 31-1/2 inches long. Attach this pack-out piece under the fascia.
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9.
Lay the Decking
Begin with the first full piece of decking that touches the house. Place one end of each decking board over a doubled joist, staggering the butt joints by alternating the 14-foot decking boards with the 16-footers as shown in Figure 2a. Allow the boards to run over on both ends of the deck. Attach the deck boards using 2-1/2-inch deck screws. (Drill pilot holes for all screws that will be 2 inches or less from the end of a board.)
Once you've installed all the boards, make a chalk line to cut them flush to the fascia on all three sides.
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10.
Build the Stairs
The stairway shown has a unit rise of 7 inches and a unit run of 11 inches. However, because terrain varies, these dimensions will probably be useful only as an example. Add the treads; cut so that they come flush to the outside of the stringers. Attach the stringers to the backing you installed in Step 9, driving 2-1/2-inch deck screws at an angle through the stringers into the backing.
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11.
Add the Railing
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Cut the eight 10-foot 2x6s into 15 posts; cut each post 52-1/2 inches long, making a 45-degree cut at both ends. Each corner post consists of two 2x6s. For these, make a 45-degree mitered rip-cut along one edge of four of the 2x6s.
Cut the 103 rail balusters to 36 inches, making a 45-degree angle at both ends.
Position the bottom of each post flush with the bottom of the fascia. Drive four 5/8-inch diameter x 6-inch-long lag bolts, and then install a lag screw with washers. (Fig. 10)
Attach the 2x6 top rails and the 2x4 bottom rails to the inside of the posts, using 2-1/2-inch deck screws. Cut the rail cap pieces, nipping some of the corners with 45-degree cuts. Install the rail cap so that it overhangs the inside of the top rail by 3/4 inch, and then attach the balusters, using a 4-inch-wide piece of scrap lumber as a spacer.
This deck includes decorative railing blocks, which are optional. These are 22 pieces of 1-1/2-inch-thick scrap stock ripped to 3 inches wide and cut to 5-1/2 inches long. Attach one to each side of the posts using 3-inch deck screws driven through the inside of the top rails. (Note: Each of the two posts alongside the house receives only one railing block.)
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12.
Build the Stair Rail
To construct the stair rail, first cut the 8-foot 2x4 stair post in half. Then attach each 4-foot post to the stringers as shown in Figure 9. Do not cut the posts to final height yet.
Next, cut the 8-foot 2x4 top rail in half. Attach the top rails to the posts so that they run parallel to the stair slope and are placed at their final location along the posts. (The posts will extend above the top rails, but will be cut down to size later).
Cut the two 8-foot 2x2 stair balusters in half, and then attach the four balusters to the stringers and top rails. Space them equidistant from the deck posts, stair posts, and each other.
Cut the tops of the stair posts and balusters flush to the top of the top rail, and then install the rail cap.
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