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A curtain rod is the most functional means of supporting a window dressing. A single curtain rod, one of the most commonly used rods, is usually expandable and comes in several clearances (the distance from the back of the rod to the wall). The sides of the rod that bend toward the wall are called returns. A return is also the distance from the front of the rod to the wall. (Fig. 1)
Before hanging a single curtain rod, you need to determine:
* The style of your window treatment
* The height and width of the space you'd like to cover
* The height that the curtain heading, if any, extends above the rod.
* The height of the hardware used to hang the curtains on the rod, such as rings, tabs, or hooks (if applicable)
Then use those figures to calculate where to place the rod(s) and other hardware.
Considering Style
There are many styles of window treatments from which you can choose. Many factors will influence your decision, including your room's décor, the type and shape of the window you are dressing, whether you'd like to invite or block the light or view, and whether privacy is important.
The following discusses how to cover a standard double-hung window using basic curtains that have a rod pocket at the top.
Considering Height
Select a height for the rod so that the curtain falls to a certain point. Decide where you want the bottom of the curtain to fall, and then measure up from that spot to the top of the rod.
In general, the most common lengths for window treatments are sill, below sill, floor, and puddled (Fig. 2).
A sill-length curtain skims the windowsill. This length can start from the top of the window to the sill, or when café style, from the middle of the window to the sill. A curtain this length is typically easy to maneuver, so it is a good choice for a window that will be opened and closed often.
The below-sill length falls at least 4 inches beneath the window frame so that it covers the apron (the horizontal board that runs under the sill). If the curtain is too far below the sill, however, it looks awkward and unfinished. This length generally looks best on picture windows and above window seats.
A floor-length curtain makes a strong visual statement. Be sure that the curtain is only 1/2 inch above the floor. (In humid areas, however, the curtain can be an inch off the floor to allow for the stretching of the fabric.) This length works well with double-hung windows, sliding glass doors, and tall, narrow openings.
Puddling is the term used for a floor-length curtain with an extra allowance of fabric that is arranged into a soft pouf (the puddle) on the floor. Particularly appropriate for floor-to-ceiling windows, puddling has some drawbacks. A puddled curtain often needs adjustment, as it can be easily disarranged. Also, it isn't the right choice for high traffic aisles or doorways, because the extra fabric can block the function of a door or cause someone to trip.
Keep in mind that you'll need to place the rod so that any heading will end below the ceiling; this way the curtain can draw easily.
Caution: Curtains should never touch or block a radiator, heat vent, or heating unit. If you have a below-sill length curtain, you may be able to adjust the height of the rod so that the curtains end above the heater. Otherwise, you should either use sill-length curtains, or, if possible, hem the ones you have until they are safely above the heater.
Considering Width
When choosing curtains or draperies for your windows, consider how far you will be able to retract the panels. Stack-back refers to how compactly curtains or draperies can be drawn back on a rod (Fig. 3). Where there is minimal wall space around a window, or when you want to maximize the view or light, the depth of the stack-back is a concern.
The heavier the fabric, and the wider the window, the wider the stack-back. If you want to hold the curtains completely away from the window so that you can enjoy the view or admit as much sunlight as possible, be sure to allow for a wide enough curtain rod. Install the rod at the correct width so that when the fabric is drawn back, it'll clear the window.
If you use an expansion rod, select one that does not extend much more than half of its full length when it's opened to the desired width. This way the rod won't sag in the middle, as it might if you extended it too far.
Taking Measurements
The most time-consuming part of hanging curtain rods is taking the measurements. However, take your time with this step, as it's important to get accurate figures. Otherwise, if you're slightly off, you may end up with tilted curtains, exposed areas that should be hidden, or other undesirable effects. Use a metal measuring tape or a 6-foot folding ruler. Avoid using a cloth measuring tape because it can stretch and give you inaccurate readings. Record all measurements to the nearest 1/16 of an inch. Double-check your measurements to make sure they are accurate.
Following are two methods for hanging a single curtain rod.
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1.
Hanging a Single Curtain Rod from a Window Casing
1) On both sides of the window casing, use a pencil to mark where the outer upper corners of the brackets should be located. This location will vary according to the design and function of your window treatment. Usually, however, the brackets are located as close to the corners of the casing as possible without risking splitting the wood; or you may want to install a rod mid-height for tiered styles (you could also use a café rod for this purpose).
2) Fasten the curtain rod bracket to the casing using appropriately sized screws. These small screws may be supplied with the brackets, but often nails are included instead. Using screws, however, will fasten the rod more securely. Use at least two screws to secure each bracket. To prevent the casing from splitting, don't install the screws close to the edge of the casing.
3) Thread the curtains onto the rod. In many cases, your curtains will have a rod pocket through which you push the rod. It's sometimes helpful to put a small plastic bag over the end of the rod before you push it through the pocket; this way it's less likely to catch on the fabric.
4) Hang the rod on the brackets. Each bracket has a dull point at its tip. Hold the rod at an upward angle (with ends pointing downward). Insert the bracket tips through the holes at each end of the rod, and then pull the rod gently downward until it rests parallel with the floor and is firmly seated on the brackets.
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2.
Hanging a Single Curtain Rod on the Wall Surrounding a Window
1) If you're installing the rod brackets in drywall, tap a small brad (a very small nail) at the location where you wish to place the first bracket.
a) Screws only
If the brad penetrates through the drywall and into wood framing, you'll need only screws to install the bracket. The screws must be long enough to penetrate at least 1/4 inch into the wood framing beyond the drywall. Using two screws, fasten the bracket to the wall.
b) Screws and wall anchors
If the brad penetrates into a void behind the drywall, you'll need to use plastic wall anchors, hollow wall anchors, or toggle bolts to secure the brackets. If the curtain rod and curtains are lightweight, use plastic wall anchors--these are the easiest to use and require the smallest hole. Plastic wall anchors are available in different sizes, so be sure to purchase the correct size for the screws that you will use.
Use either an awl or a drill to make a hole for each plastic anchor in the drywall. The hole should be small enough so that the anchor will be snug when inserted. Use a light hammer to tap the plastic anchor flush to the wall. You will need two anchors per bracket.
Using two screws, fasten the bracket to the wall.
2) Repeat step 1 on other side of the window.
3) Thread the curtains onto the rod.
4) Hang the rod on the brackets.
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