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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: 2 weekends
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Wooden fireplace screen, including hinges
Primer
Decorative base molding
Satin finish latex paint in off-white
Metallic acrylic craft paint in gold
Metallic acrylic craft paint in antique gold
Decorator glazes in neutral, brown, spruce green, sage, ivy green, dark green, and teal
Stencil paper or acetate
Sponge stamp block in ivy shape
Scroll stamp
Antiquing medium in butterscotch
Liquid gold leaf
3" flat bristle paintbrush
Stencil brushes
Waxed stencil paper
Craft knife
Kraft paper
Sandpaper
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Tack cloth
Primer
Flat foam paintbrushes
Fine artist's paintbrushes: flat, liner, pointed, and round in assorted sizes
Masking tape
Scissors
Mixing containers
Paper towels
Pencil
Straightedge
Sealer
Spray adhesive
Dust mask
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Every room needs a focal point to provide a visual anchor. Here, a fabulous fireplace screen does the trick (Fig. 1). You can buy or construct a simple screen from plywood, or, if you have no fireplace, you can adapt this look to a room divider or door to create a dramatic entrance.
Though this fireplace screen takes some time and planning, it offers the perfect chance to try your hand at the techniques of stamping, color washing, and stenciling. And with its palette of cream, green, and antique gold, it will lend a rustic, yet elegant, classicism to your fireplace.
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1.
Prepare the Screen
If you can, find a hinged fireplace screen made of three unfinished wood panels. If not, make one easily using the instructions below. Whether your screen is plain or pre-finished, it should be thoroughly sanded and primed.
To Make the Screen:
This screen features two 9 x 36-inch side panels and one 26 x 36-inch center panel cut from a 3/4-inch thick sheet of plywood. If you aren't handy with a circular saw or table saw, ask your local lumber mill to cut the panels to size.
Attach the side and center panels with two-way (piano) hinges. These are easy to install; simply mark their locations along the inside edges of the panel pieces and drill pilot holes. If you'd like to test the fit, install them, and then remove them again.
Lightly sand the panels and wipe them clean with a tack cloth.
Cut strips of 2-inch decorative base molding to fit the width of the panels, and glue them along the bottom of each section.
After the glue sets, apply two coats of primer to the panels.
Let the primer dry; then paint the panels with two coats of off-white latex paint.
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2.
Create the Stencils
Cut stencils for the roping (Fig. 2) and lattice (Fig. 3). (The topiary is simply two plain circles of 5 inches and 7-1/2 inches in diameter; you probably can make these circles without stencils.)
Trace or photocopy the stencil patterns, enlarging them as needed. Spray the back of each one with spray adhesive and affix it to the stencil paper. Cut out the stencil designs using a sharp craft knife. If you make a mistake, don't recut the same line; cut a new one to ensure clean, even edges. Move each stencil as you cut it to help control the blade.
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3.
Mark Placement of the Designs
Using a straightedge, draw a 3-1/2-inch-wide border along the top and both sides of the center panel, and along the tops and outer sides of the side panels.
Just below this border, measure and draw a 1/2-inch-wide band at the top of the center panel, and along the sides, top, and bottom of the other panels.
Arrange and mark the position of the topiary, roping, and lattice stencils on the panels (You'll need to repeat the lattice down the length of each side panel.) Set the stencils aside.
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4.
Paint the Panel Centers
Mask off the 3-1/2-inch borders and the 1/2-inch bands.
Paint the middle section of each panel with the butterscotch antiquing medium.
While the finish still is wet, rub some off with a soft cloth to simulate the look of wear over time. After the medium dries, remove the masking tape.
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5.
Finish the Panel Borders
Mask off the inside and outside edges of the 3-1/2-inch borders.
Mix the green and neutral glazes for a pleasing color.
Apply the glaze inside the border on all panels, making crosshatched strokes with a 3-inch-wide flat brush. Let the glaze dry; then remove the tape.
You can use additional colors with subsequent coats of glaze, but allow each coat to dry before applying the next one, or the colors will blend together.
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6.
Paint the Antique Gold Bands
Mask off the inner and outer edges of the 1/2-inch bands that will be painted around the center of each side panel and toward the top of the center panel. Fill in the bands with antique gold using a 1/2-inch-wide flat brush. Let the paint dry, then remove the tape.
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7.
Stamp the Gold Scrolled Border
Measure and mark the placement of the stamped scroll motifs on the top and bottom of each panel within the 3-1/2-inch border. Decide how many repeats of the scroll stamp you'll need and how far apart to make each one. Note the position of each scroll with a pencil, and then, with a flat brush, load the rubber stamp with antique gold paint and apply the design. (Fig. 4)
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8.
Stencil the Gold Rope Pattern on the Center Panel
Next, you'll stencil the twisted rope pattern along the sides and bottom of the center panel. Tape the template into position (you also can cover its back with spray adhesive to keep it from slipping while you work).
Dip the stencil brush into the antique gold paint, and then blot it on a paper towel; use only a small amount of paint. Pounce the brush up and down over the stencil to make crisp, clean edges, and work from the edges toward the center. (Fig. 5)
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9.
Stencil the Lattice on the Side Panels
Following the same procedure, stencil the lattice onto the side panels.
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10.
Paint the Pot and Topiary
Paint a large pot in gold metallic paint. Add shading with an artist's brush dipped in brown paint.
For the topiary, add a touch of green to the neutral glaze and paint a 5-inch circle over a 7-1/2-inch circle.
Stencil the stem in brown. (Fig. 6)
With the ivy sponge stamp, fill in the topiary form with leaves, using three green glazes and overlapping and varying their direction. (Figs. 7 and 8)
Add veining with a fine artist's brush.
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11.
Add Liquid Leaf and Sealer
Highlight the base molding with liquid leaf, and let it dry.
Apply two coats of sealer to each panel, and allow the sealer to dry.
Reinstall the hinges.
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