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Project Difficulty:
Easy
Estimated
Project Time: A few hours
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Fabric and matching thread
Sewing machine and machine needles
Curtain rod and mounting hardware
Screwdriver, as needed
Ladder, as needed
Measuring tape and yardstick
Pencil and paper
Large worktable or cutting board
Bent-handle shears
Embroidery scissors
Straight pins
Iron and ironing board
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For someone with a modest amount of sewing skills, unlined rod-pocket curtains are fairly simple to make. Like many other projects, however, it's the preparatory steps that are more involved.
The first thing to determine is the measurements of the finished curtains because you can then add the allowances for hem and edge finishes to arrive at the real numbers you need for buying the correct amount of fabric for making the curtains (Step 2, below). The finished length of the curtains is the measurement from the very top edge of the curtain down to its lower edge. To determine the length, start by establishing where you want the curtain rod to be. Most rods are typically installed at the top of the window to the trim or to the wall. For a cafe curtain, the rod is set across the window somewhere near its center. Depending on the look you want, the top of the curtain can start at the rod or at the top of a heading above the rod, and then extend down to the sill, apron, floor, or some other point in between (see Figure 1, below). The finished width of a pair of rod-pocket curtains is usually twice the length of the curtain rod, from bracket to bracket. This allows for an adequate amount of fullness for medium-weight fabrics; heavier fabrics usually require less. Sheer fabrics, however, might require more fullness, perhaps two and a half to three times the finished width.
When selecting fabrics, consider care and durability as well as design and weight. You want a fabric that will enhance the decor of the room and produce the look you want but you also need a fabric that will be able to withstand multiple launderings or dry cleanings without losing its shape and size. As a safeguard, launder or dry-clean the fabric, as appropriate for the fabric, to preshrink it before it's cut for the curtains. This is especially important to do if you intend to launder the finished curtains frequently. Before buying the fabric, make sure that both its lengthwise and crosswise grainlines are straight and perpendicular to each other. If a patterned fabric, check that the pattern aligns with the straight grain of the fabric. If the grainlines or pattern are askew the fabric may not hang properly and you might be better off choosing another fabric.
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1.
Install Curtain Rod and Take Measurements
Decide where you want the curtain rod to be and install it using the brackets, fasteners, and instructions included with the rod. When done, measure the length of the rod from bracket to bracket. This number is equal to the finished width of the curtains; if making a set of curtains, divide the number in half for the finished width of one curtain panel. To arrive at the finished length measurement, measure from the top of the rod down to where the lower edge of the curtain will be and to this number add the height of the curtain heading, if there will be one. (Fig. 1)
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2.
Determine the Cutting Size of the Panels and the Yardage
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Total yardage is based on the cutting width and length of each panel, the number of panels you are making, and whether or not you will need to piece lengths in order to achieve the required width for a panel. If using a fabric with a pattern that needs to be matched, add extra length, that of the pattern's repeat, for matching panels to each other. To arrive at the total yardage needed, multiply the cutting length of a panel by the total number of panels you will need. If you will have to piece lengths in order to achieve the desired width of a panel, remember to allow for these lengths in your total yardage.
Typically, the cutting width is equal to the finished width of the panel plus allowances for a double "hem" along each side edge. For each double "hem" add twice its finished width. For example, to produce a 1-inch-wide double "hem" finish along each side edge of the curtain, add 4 inches to the width (2 inches for each finish). If you need to join lengths to produce a panel's width, however, allow for a double "hem" allowance on one edge and a 1/2-inch seam allowance along the other.
The cutting length of each panel is usually the sum of: the finished curtain length, double the desired width of the lower hem, double the width of the rod pocket, and double the width of the heading, if there is one. (Fig. 2)
When deciding on the widths for the lower hem, rod pocket, and the heading consider the following information: For medium-weight fabrics, plan to make a 4-inch double hem along the lower edge (add 8 inches extra to the length). Sheer fabrics, however, look best with a wider double hem; heavier fabrics also require a wider double hem to provide the weight needed for the curtain to hang properly.
The rod pocket should open with enough extra room for the rod to pass through it easily and for the fabric to gather. For the width of the rod pocket, measure around the rod, add about 1/2 inch, and divide that in half.
The width of the heading above the rod pocket is dependent on the look you want--a narrow heading, a wide one, or a heading that is equal to the width of the rod pocket.
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3.
Cut Out the Curtains
Press the fabric flat and, if necessary, recut the top and bottom edges straight along the cross grain of the fabric. Using your measurements as a guide and following the straight grain of the fabric, cut out all the curtain lengths, matching the pattern of the fabric as necessary from one piece to another. If need be, use dressmaker's chalk or pencils and a yardstick to draw cutting lines to guide you. Put the cut pieces to the side, laying them flat so that they won't get wrinkled.
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4.
Join Lengths If Necessary
If you need to join lengths to produce a panel's width, do so by using a 1/2-inch-wide double-stitched seam (Fig. 3). With right sides of fabric facing each other and their cut edges matching, place a row of straight stitches 1/2 inch in from the edge. Then go back and form a row of zigzag stitches within the seam allowances along the row of straight stitches. Trim excess seam allowances and press the seam to one side.
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5.
Finish the Side Edges and Lower Hem
Working one edge at a time, form a double "hem" along each side edge. Fold the entire edge finish allowance to the wrong side of the fabric, and then fold under half of that allowance so that its cut edge meets the first foldline. (For example, if making a 1-inch-wide finish, you first fold in 2 inches and then fold under 1 inch of that to meet the first foldline.) Press each foldine as it is formed. Pin or baste the finish in place, and then topstitch along the inside fold, through all layers of fabric. (Fig. 4)
Form and stitch a double hem along the lower edge of each curtain panel in the same manner as was done for the edges, folding up the entire hem allowance first, and then folding that in half so that its cut edge meets the first fold. (Fig. 5)
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6.
Finish the Top Edge
Turn under the top of the curtain along the foldline for its finished edge, and then turn under half of that so that the cut edge meets the foldline. Press and then pin or baste in place. Topstitch through all layers along the inner foldline, which is also the lower edge of the rod pocket. (Fig. 6)
If the curtain includes a heading, form another row of topstitches, placing them a rod pocket's width away from the first row. (Fig. 7)
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7.
Hang the Curtains
Press the curtains. Thread the curtain rod through the rod pockets, and then hang the rod onto the brackets. Go back and evenly distribute the fullness of the curtains along the rod. (Fig. 8)
If there is a heading, evenly distribute the fullness into the heading as well. (Fig. 9)
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