Project Difficulty:
Moderate Estimated
Project Time: A weekend or more, depending on the size of the area
Tools and Materials:
Screwdriver
Power drill/driver
Clamps
Propane torch
Pipe cutter or hacksaw
Work gloves
Baseboard convector
Pipe and fittings
Bleeder valve
Solder
Flux
Scrap Type X drywall and foil
Wire-brush tool or sandpaper
Installing a furnace or entire HVAC system is not a DIY project and requires a professional contractor. However, you probably can add to your current heating system without calling the pros. The instructions below describe how to add a hot water convector to your home's existing hot water heating system.
You usually can tap the existing water lines and avoid adding new pipes, since most systems can handle one or two additional convectors. But before you start, find out which of the three common hot-water system layouts your house has:
* A Series Loop--includes the convectors in the circuit; hot water enters each unit through a supply riser, exits through a return riser, and moves on to the next convector in the loop
* One-Pipe Systems--supply and return branch lines feed each convector from a main supply loop
* Two-Pipe Systems--have entirely separate circuits for the supply and return
Since hot-water heating pipes run in a circuit around the house, you may find the main line around the perimeter of the basement or along a center beam.
1.
Plan the Baseboard Location
Locate the new baseboard unit over a supply pipe in the floor below. Start by installing the reflector panel on the wall. (Fig. 1)
2.
Attach the Convector Element to the Reflector Panel
Position the convector element on brackets attached to the reflector panel. Be careful not to bend the heat-dispersing fins. (Fig. 2)
3.
Mark the Location for the Supply Pipe
Temporarily fit the cutoff valve onto the end of the convector pipe; on the floor below, mark where the supply pipe will rise up to meet it. (Fig. 3)
4.
Drill a Hole for the Supply Pipe
Remove the valve, and drill a hole through the floor at your mark. (The hole and valve will be hidden by the convector end cap.) (Fig. 4)
5.
Drill a Hole for the Return Pipe, Attach the Bleeder Valve
After also drilling a hole for the return pipe at the other end of the convector, solder on a bleeder valve. Protect the wall from flame. (Fig. 5)
6.
Test Fit All Components
Test-fit pipes and fittings to reach from the convector valves to the hot-water supply pipe below the floor. (Fig. 6)
7.
Install a T-Fitting
Cut off the water supply, and use a pipe cutter to cut away a section of the supply pipe to install a T-fitting. (Fig. 7)
8.
Sand Mating Surfaces
Use a wire-brush tool or sandpaper to brighten the mating edges (inside and out) of the old pipe and the new fitting. (Fig. 8)
9.
Apply Flux
To draw solder fully into the joint and prevent pinhole leaks, paint the connecting pipe parts with flux. (Fig. 9)
10.
Protect the Wall
Take care to protect surrounding wood from flames. A clamp holds this piece of nonburning drywall covered with foil. (Fig. 10)
11.
Solder the Pipes and Complete Installation
Once the pipe joints are soldered, slide on the adjustable heat-control flap and the front cover of the convector. (Fig. 11)
12.
Affix End Caps
To finish the job, clip an end cap onto each end of the unit; a front flap lifts out provide access to the cutoff valve. Turn the water back on and test the system. (Fig. 12)
