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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: 2 hours
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Flashlight
Small bucket
Washers for tailpiece connection and trap bend (if worn)
Rubber gasket for pop-up stopper stem (if worn)
Pop-up stopper (if worn)
Ball joint and pivot rod (if worn)
Rags for stuffing the drain arm
Adjustable wrench or channel-type pliers
Pipe wrench
Spud wrench for removing the locknut
Hammer (for tapping stubborn locknuts)
Plumber's putty
Pipe joint compound
Putty knife
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The most likely source of a leak under a lavatory basin, after a leaky trap, is a faulty connection between the basin drain and the drain line (tailpiece). The basin drain is essentially a two-piece fitting composed of the drain body that sits at the bottom of the basin, and the pop-up stopper (valve) that fits into the tailpiece or straight section of pipe connecting the drain to the trap bend beneath the basin. Often when you see water dripping from the trap, it is actually coming from the drain, running down the tailpiece to the trap, and then dripping onto the floor or the bottom of your cabinet.
To discover the source of a leak, shine a flashlight up toward the connection between the drain body and the tailpiece. There will be a locknut connection securing the tailpiece to the drain body. If there is water around this connection, then it is the drain body that is leaking. Most likely, the connection is loose. The leak may be caused by a poorly seated drain flange, a worn gasket around the pop-up stopper, or a worn or poorly seated washer between the drain body and the tailpiece. It is also possible that the pivot rod and ball joint connection could be worn out. If tightening the locknut between the drain body and the basin does not stop the leak, you will need to remove and examine the entire drain assembly. Here's how.
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1.
Remove the Trap
Remove the trap bend (the U-shaped portion of pipe in the drain line). Place a small bucket under the trap, loosen the slip nuts immediately above the U-section on both sides of the trap bend (Fig. 1). The trap will drop down into the tub. With the trap removed, stuff a rag into the trap arm to prevent sewer gas from entering the room. Metal traps will have two black rubber washers that will fall out as well--don't lose them. If they are in bad condition you will have to replace them. Get an exact replacement--they will either be 1-1/2- or 1-1/4-inch diameter washers.
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2.
Remove the Tailpiece
The tailpiece is the straight section of pipe above the trap bend that screws into the underside of the drain body. To remove it, slide the trap's nut and washer off the tailpiece. Next, remove the tailpiece by unscrewing it from the drain fitting.
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3.
Remove the Drain Control
The lavatory drain control must be disconnected from the tailpiece before you can remove the drain assembly. Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the clevis screw and free the lift rod. Next, free the pivot rod from the drain. Lastly, disconnect the pivot rod from the pop-up stopper, and remove them both. (Fig. 2)
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4.
Remove the Drain
Using a spud wrench, pipe wrench, or channel-type pliers, unscrew the locknut below the drain body to disconnect the drain assembly. The locknut draws the drain body tight to the basin to create a seal. Looking up toward the basin from below, turn the locknut in a counterclockwise direction. After removing the drain assembly, check the pop-up stopper gasket and the washer between the drain body and tailpiece. If they are worn, replace them. Check the pop-up stopper for wear, and replace it if necessary.
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5.
Reinstall the Drain and Tailpiece
Once the drain assembly is disconnected, it must be carefully resealed. Use plumber’s putty to reseal the flange of the drain body to the bottom of the basin. After the seat has been cleaned thoroughly, roll out a rope of very soft plumber's putty. Press the putty to the bottom of the strainer body flange and seat it in the bottom of the basin. From beneath the basin, replace and then secure the locknut to hold the drain body in position. Reconnect the tailpiece, tightening the slip nut between it and the drain body. Slice away the excess putty from the flange.
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6.
Reinstall the Drain Controls
Reinstall the drain controls, replacing the ball joints and pivot rod if they are worn out. Attach the lift rod to the clevis. Insert the pop-up stopper or a replacement into the drain hole, and then engage it with the pivot rod. Adjust the elevation of the stopper by selecting the appropriate hole in the clevis for the pivot rod, and then reattach the spring clip.
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7.
Reinstall the Trap
Slip the P-trap washer and slip nut back onto the tailpiece. If the trap arm requires a washer, reinstall or replace it next. Then reconnect the trap bend to both the trap arm and the tailpiece, hand-tightening the slip nuts at each end. Once everything is properly positioned, tighten both nuts slightly with a wrench.
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8.
Check for Leaks
Let the putty dry, and then run water through the system to check for leaks. Tighten the nuts further, if necessary.
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