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TO: OUR READERS
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RE: QUILT STYLE
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We make every effort to ensure that the directions in our books are accurate; however, there are times when information gets misprinted. We have discovered errors, primarily in the cutting tables for the quilts in our new book Quilt Style. Before you begin your quilt, click on the link below for the most updated information and corrections for your project. Then proceed to make your selected quilt using the new directions posted. Happy quilting!
Click Here for updated instructions.
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Project Difficulty:
Difficult
Estimated
Project Time: 2 or more days
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Goggles
Gloves
Sump pump
Sump pump liner
Pencil
Measuring tape
Jackhammer (rented)
Shovel
Gravel
PVC pipe
Check valve
Masonry anchors
Pipe brackets
Electric drill
Masonry bits
Hole saw for PVC pipe
Surface-mounted outlet
Wiring
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Basic electrical tools
Short length of 2x4
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One fairly easy way to keep the basement dry is to install an electric sump pump, which draws water from beneath the slab and pumps it away from the house. The pump sits in a hole, or sump, that extends below the slab. When water collects in the sump, the pump turns on automatically and removes the water through a plastic discharge pipe that exits the basement above grade. Installing a sump pump calls for wiring, plumbing, and concrete-demolition skills. A pump must not be the only thing standing between you and a flooded basement, however. After all, pumps do fail. A sump pump may be part of a strategy to keep water out, but if water problems are severe, footing drains may have to be installed as well.
Types of Sump Pumps
There are two basic types of sump pumps: pedestal and submersible. A pedestal-type pump features a raised motor that does not come in contact with water. Instead, it sits on top of a plastic pipe that extends into the sump. Water rising in the sump causes the float to rise and turn on the pump. When the water level drops, so does the float, which then turns off the pump. With a submersible pump (Fig. 1), the entire pump sits at the bottom of the sump pit and is submerged every time the sump fills up with water. A float on the pump triggers the on-off switch. Either kind of sump pump removes water effectively. Consult a plumber or supplier to determine the best sump pump for your situation.
Installing a Sump Pump
In addition to plumbing codes, the pump installation must conform to electrical codes, which in general terms means that the pump’s power supply must be a dedicated 15-amp circuit. The following step-by-step project is a guide to how the work usually is done, but be sure to check local codes and the manufacturer’s instructions that come with the pump. The exact dimensions of the sump pit, for example, depend on the size of the liner, sometimes called a basin. Purchase the pump and the liner before starting work.
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1.
Dig the Sump
The sump pump is located in the lowest part of the basement so that water naturally drains to it. The whole point of installing the device is to keep water out of the basement to begin with, of course, but it’s still prudent to locate the pump this way. Turn the basin upside down and use it as a template to scribe a circle on the floor; the circle’s centerpoint must be about 16 inches away from both walls.
Breaking a hole in a 4-inch-thick slab isn’t easy work, so rent a jackhammer for the job (Fig. 2). Wearing safety glasses, remove concrete up to the layout line. Then dig out the soil and gravel beneath the slab--the depth depends on the size of the liner, usually about 24 inches. Periodically, slip the liner into place to see whether it fits.
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2.
Install the Liner
The liner is a plastic tub with holes in the sides that allow ground water to seep into it. Some liners have a lip at the top that covers the edges of the concrete. Once the hole is deep enough, slip the liner into place and fill it with gravel, as needed (Fig. 3). If necessary, use concrete to seal the edges of the hole.
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3.
Hook Up the Discharge Pipe
Check the manufacturer’s instructions that came with the pump to determine the type of discharge pipe needed and the necessary diameter (usually 1-¼-inch PVC pipe). Attach a piece of pipe that’s long enough to reach the pump itself (submersible type) or the intake housing (pedestal type). Then lower the pump into the sump and connect additional discharge pipe as needed. A check valve must be used somewhere in the discharge piping to keep water from draining back into the sump. If the pump has to be removed for servicing, disconnect the discharge pipe at the check valve. It usually has a threaded fitting. (Fig. 4)
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4.
Install the Discharge Pipe
It’s usually easiest to route out the discharge pipe through the rim or header joist. Cut an appropriately size hole with a drill and hole saw. Attach the pipe to the basement wall with masonry anchors and brackets. Afterward, use caulk to seal the hole in the joist. Be sure that the end of the discharge pipe doesn’t dump the water against the outside of the foundation. Use a splash block to direct water away. (Fig. 5)
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5.
Wire and Test the Pump
Check local electrical codes to see whether a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is required for a sump pump, and then run wiring from the service panel to the general location of the new pump. The pump itself has a long electrical cord and three-prong plug, so you must install a grounded receptacle for it. This arrangement makes it easy to disconnect the pump should it ever need servicing.
The box is typically located high on a wall to avoid splashes caused by the pump. Check local codes for specifics. Use masonry anchors to secure a 2x4 to the foundation wall; this will provide a secure base for the installation of a surface-mounted electrical box. Plug in the pump and pour water into the sump. The pump should begin to work when the sump is about half full. As water flows through the discharge pipe, check all connections for leaks. (Fig. 6)
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