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Project Difficulty:
Difficult
Estimated
Project Time: 4 to 6 hours
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Water softener and resin
Water-supply tubing
Adapters for existing pipes
2" tees
3" gate valves
2 union fittings
2 ground clamps, as needed
#6 copper wire for ground connection, as needed
Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)
Measuring tape
Hacksaw or tubing cutter
2 pipe wrenches
Pail
Teflon tape or pipe joint compound
PVC solvent cement
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If your water has too much iron, calcium, magnesium, or other materials, it is said to be "hard" water. This is especially common in rural areas where people draw their water from wells. Excessive minerals in your water can discolor your tub, sinks, and cooking utensils. These minerals can be removed from the water through an ion exchange that takes place within a water softener unit. As water passes through the softener unit, an ion exchange removes the minerals and replaces them with sodium or potassium. What you are left with is "soft" water that will clean your clothes better and prevent a buildup of minerals on your pots, pans, and plumbing fixtures. Soft water, however, can taste salty. This can be avoided by installing a bypass so that your drinking water will not run through the softener unit. You can also bypass water that does not need to be softened, such as the water used in toilets and outdoor faucets.
If you're not sure if your water is hard, have it professionally tested. A basic water analysis will test for total hardness, pH, iron level, as well as total dissolved solids (TDS).
Choosing a Water Softener
There are basically two types of water softeners: those that you get serviced outside of the home, usually at a water service company, and those that you flush automatically or manually and regenerate at home. In order to install any water softener, you must have ample water pressure of at least 3 gallons per minute at 30 pounds per square inch (psi). Low water pressure will hinder the unit's performance and can also lead to frequent servicing. However, if the pressure is more than 100 psi, it can damage the unit and may void the manufacturer's warranty. If you intend to install a model that regenerates automatically, it will need to be plugged into a 120-volt, three-slot electrical outlet that is connected to a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
Softener models that get flushed and recharged at home will need a place to drain the briny backwash. Most jurisdictions prohibit homeowners from flushing the backwash into a public sewer system. Some plumbing codes will allow you to drain the backwash onto your property or into your septic system or dry well. Keep in mind that the backwash will kill your plants and grass if it comes into contact with them.
When installing the unit, make sure you place it in a spot that will permit you or your service person to easily access the system when it needs maintenance or repair.
Before You Begin
Before you start the project, make sure you have set aside enough time to finish it. You don't want to shut off your water and then have to leave. When you are ready to begin, you will need to install new piping and fittings from the main cold water supply and into the softener inlet, outlet, and bypass (Fig. 1). The piping and fittings you will need to install the unit depend on the type of pipes you currently have. The three most common types of piping are galvanized steel, copper, and plastic tubing. You can use a different type of piping for the softener connection, such as the easy-to-work-with chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) plastic piping, as long you stay within local building codes.
You need to use the same size piping as your existing cold water-supply line, usually 3/4-inch. If your supply line uses 1/2-inch piping, you will need to use connectors that match the 3/4-inch fittings used on most water softener units. You need to provide two unions at the connection to the softener; they allow you to remove and replace the softener for cleaning, flushing, or servicing.
Installing the Softener
Before starting, choose an area near your main water supply line where you will want to place your softener. The location should allow easy access to the unit from all sides and provide soft water where you want it and leave the untreated water somewhere else (Fig. 2). If it is a type that regenerates automatically, it should be within easy reach of a 120-volt, three-slot electrical outlet that is grounded to a GFCI.
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1.
Turn Off the Water Supply
Turn off the water supply by closing the shutoff valves. Then drain the water from the system by opening all of your water faucets and flushing your toilets. Leave the faucets turned on.
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2.
Assemble the Water Softener
Carefully unpack your softener unit. Some will need assembly, in which case, follow the manufacturer's instructions.
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3.
Cut the Cold Water-Supply Piping
First, accurately measure the distance between the outlet and the inlet valves on your softener. Then, using either a tubing cutter or hacksaw, cut and remove a piece of your cold water-supply line that is approximately 3 inches longer than your measurement. Make the cut directly above your softener. (Fig. 3)
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4.
Create the Valves
Create an inlet valve, an outlet valve, and a bypass valve by assembling lengths of tubing, tee fittings, and valves to fit your needs (Figs. 1 and 4). If you are using solvent cement to join CPVC tubing and fittings, allow the joints to cure for at least two hours before you pressurize the system.
Caution: If using plastic pipe with CPVC-to-copper adapters to replace a section of metal pipe that is also used as an electrical service ground, you must use a suitable size of copper wire to form a bridge over the plastic pipe, connecting each end of the wire to a UL-listed ground clamp. For example, a No. 6 copper wire is suitable for a house with up to 200-ampere electrical service.
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5.
Connect the Valves
Using the appropriate fittings, attach the inlet and outlet valves and the bypass valve to the pipe ends that you created in the cold water-supply line. Make sure the fittings are tight to prevent any leaks.
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6.
Position the Softener
Position the softener directly under the valves installed in the preceding step. Install any additional piping to the inlet and outlet valves to complete the connection between the softener and the water-supply line. Secure all of your fittings.
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7.
Install the Drain Line
Install the unit's backwash line from the softener's drain fitting valve to a drain in the floor or a sink. So that the backwash will not contaminate your water supply, position the line so that there will be a 1-1/2- to 2-inch air gap between the drain line and the floor or sink drain. (Figs. 5, 6, and 7)
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8.
Install the Brine Tank
Position the brine tank near the water softener (see Fig. 2). Fill it with the appropriate softener salt. Plug the control cord (if there is one) into a suitable electrical outlet. Set the softener's control valve to the backwash setting.
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9.
Turn the Water Back On
Open the water shutoff valve a tiny bit; air will begin to slowly escape from the backwash line. If water rushes in too rapidly and you notice any resin leaking out, slow down the flow of the water. Once all of the air has been purged from the softener's tank, open the valve all the way and allow the water to drain from the backwash line until the water runs clear. Reset the control valve to the softening position and look closely for any leaks. To purge the house piping of any air, open the outlet valve. Beginning on the lowest floor of your house, close each water faucet once the water is flowing out steadily from it. When all of your faucets are closed, do a final inspection of your water softener unit for leaks.
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10.
Maintain your Softener
A water softener that regenerates automatically is virtually maintenance free. If the unit needs to get flushed and regenerated manually, you will need to first close the inlet and outlet valves and then open the bypass valve so that you will be able to have water while your softener is being serviced. Check the salt in the softener periodically and fill with the recommended softener as needed. You'll notice a big difference in your "soft" water!
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