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    PROJECTS ONLINE: CONNECTING PLASTIC PIPE

    Project Difficulty: Moderate
    Estimated Project Time: 1 hour (not including curing time for solvent cement)

     
     
    Tools and Materials:

    Rigid plastic pipe and fittings
    Measuring tape
    Safety goggles
    Gloves
    Fine-toothed saw or tubing cutter
    Scrap of wood, screws, and screwdriver, as needed
    Duct tape
    Utility knife
    Felt pen (for marking)
    Pipe cleaner, as needed
    Pipe primer, as needed
    Solvent cement
    Clean cloths
    NIOSH-approved respirator, as needed

     
           

    Plastic piping is lighter, less expensive, and easier to install than copper. It is widely used for water supply, drains, and vents (Fig. 1). Not all local codes, however, allow plastic pipe to be used in homes, or may allow it to be used only in certain situations. Check your local codes before you begin work.

    There are several types of plastic pipes, each used for specific purposes and available in certain diameters. Plastic supply lines inside the house are CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), which is rigid and off-white, or PEX (cross-linked polyethylene), which is white and flexible. PE (polyethylene), which is black, is most often used for underground watering systems. Black Schedule 40 ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) and white Schedule 40 PVC are both used for drain and vent lines. Fittings, such as elbows and reducers, come in the same materials as the piping. You can also buy fittings for transitions between CPVC and copper or other pipes.

    Making Pipe Connections by Solvent Welding

    Below are guidelines on how to add a fitting to a plastic pipe using solvent cement. Not all types of plastic pipe can be connected this way--check the manufacturer's instructions before proceeding.

    Don your safety goggles before starting this project. Wear gloves when cutting pipe; when applying primer, cleaner, or solvent cement, use a type of glove recommended by manufacturer. Also, provide proper ventilation when using cleaner, primer, and solvent cement; these materials are highly flammable and can be toxic. Although in many cases adequate ventilation is sufficient, it is recommended you wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to be on the safe side.

     

     
     
    1. Cut the Pipe

    You can cut plastic pipes (supply lines, drains, and vents) with almost any saw, but a fine-toothed blade makes a cleaner cut (Fig. 2). You can also use a tubing cutter.

    If you're adding a new pipe to a fitting, ensure a square cut by wedging the pipe firmly against a piece of wood screwed down to your workbench.

    Pipe already in place can be stabilized for cutting by taping it tightly to a nearby joist, stud, or pipe.

    2. Trim the Edges

    When you cut through plastic, even a fine-toothed saw can leave burrs and small shavings. Trim them off with a utility knife. (Fig. 3)

    3. Make Alignment Marks
    Temporarily join the pipe and fitting together. With a felt pen, mark where the two pieces join. Mark a line across the pipe and fitting, and then along the edge of the joint, crossing the original mark. This cross will tell you how deep to set one piece into the other, and their orientation relative to each other.

    4. Apply Pipe Cleaner and Primer as Needed

    To prepare the surfaces for better adhesion, you can apply pipe cleaner and pipe primer before applying the solvent cement (Fig. 4). Some pipe materials or codes may not require the use of primer. Check your code and manufacturer's instructions before proceeding with this step.

    5. Apply the Adhesive

    Apply solvent cement to the mating surfaces. Be sure to read and follow all label cautions. Some solvents are meant only for certain types of plastic; make sure you use the correct type. (Fig. 5)

    6. Make Final Adjustments

    Plastic pipe solvent cement softens mating surfaces. They become one when the surfaces harden. You need to work quickly.

    When the adhesive is applied, put the pipe and fitting together. Slightly twist the pieces to distribute the cement and to align the marks you made in step 3 (Fig. 6). Carefully wipe off excess with a clean cloth. Hold the pieces in position for a few moments while the cement sets. Curing time will vary, depending on surrounding conditions, diameter of the pipe and its use, and the type of solvent cement.

     
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