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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: 30 minutes
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Copper pipe and fittings
Hacksaw or tubing cutter
Reaming tools or round metal file
Wire brush (optional)
Emery cloth
Carbide sandpaper (optional)
Work gloves
Flux brush
Flux
Safety goggles
Propane torch
Spark lighter
Clamps, as needed
Protective sheet metal backing, as needed
Solder
Rags
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Soldered copper is the material of choice (and many local codes) for carrying water to fixtures and appliances. Copper water-supply lines inside the house come in two grades: Type M or the thicker-walled Type L. Plumbing-supply stores sell this kind of hard copper pipe in 1/2-, 3/4-, and 1-inch diameters and 10- and 20-foot lengths. Type K copper pipe has the thickest walls and is used for underground water lines. Fittings come in the same materials as the piping. You can also buy fittings for transitions between iron and copper pipe or CPVC and copper. (Fig. 1)
Soldering Copper Joints
Below are guidelines on how to join a rigid copper pipe and fitting with solder. If you're working on an existing system, shut off the water and drain the line before cutting and soldering; you can't get copper hot enough to make solder flow when it is filled with water. Also, open a faucet just beyond the repair so that any steam that develops can escape.
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1.
Cut the Pipe
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Whether you're removing damaged pipe in an existing system or cutting a new pipe to size, the procedure is basically the same.
To cut copper pipe, use a pipe cutter, which scores the pipe around its perimeter with a cutting wheel (Fig. 2). It is possible to make clean-edged, accurate cuts using a hacksaw, but that can be difficult on existing pipes tucked between wall studs where there isn't much room. Wheel-type cutters, because they are more compact, work where hacksaws can't go.
Try out the cutter a few times on a scrap piece of pipe to get the idea. First, fit it around the pipe, and tighten the handle until you feel resistance. After you rotate the cutter around the pipe once or twice, you'll feel less resistance as the wheel deepens its cutting groove. Tighten the handle again to make the wheel bite in a little deeper; keep rotating and tightening until the wheel cuts all the way through the pipe. With some practice, you'll get the knack of tightening the handle gradually while you're rotating the cutter. If you find it difficult to rotate, the wheel is biting in too deeply, and you should back off on the handle a bit.
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2.
Absorb Remaining Water
To remove residual water from an existing pipe, push sections of bread into the pipe to soak up the water. The bread will prevent water droplets from affecting the solder. Leave the bread in the pipe--it'll eventually disintegrate and flush through the line when the system is back in operation.
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3.
Smooth the Surfaces
Along the cut edge, remove any burrs using a reamer; many wheel cutters have fold-out reamers. You can also use carbide sandpaper or a round metal file.
Next, polish the surfaces to be joined. For exterior surfaces, use an emery cloth; plumbers use a small tool with metal wires inside (Fig. 3). In a pinch, use sandpaper.
Use a wire brush or emery cloth for interior surfaces (Fig. 4).
Wipe off any remaining filings using a clean cloth.
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4.
Apply Flux
To draw solder completely into the joint (even uphill against gravity), coat mating surfaces with soldering paste, called flux. (Fig. 5)
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5.
Heat the Pipe
Assemble the connection so that the pipe fits firmly into the fitting.
Unwind about a hand's length of solder, and then angle the end.
Put on safety goggles and work gloves; then turn on the propane torch so that a small supply of gas is released. Use a spark lighter to ignite the gas, and then increase the gas flow to enlarge the flame. Apply heat evenly to the entire joint (Fig. 6). You can also use clamps to handle heated pipes.
Be careful using propane torches in tight spots where the flame may lick past the pipe and heat up building materials nearby. If you're working in close quarters, you may want to provide a backing made of sheet metal behind the work area to protect other surfaces.
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6.
Apply the Solder
When the copper is hot enough to melt solder, remove the flame and apply solder around the joint in a continuous bead (Fig. 7).
When the soldering is done, turn off the propane torch. Carefully wipe off excess solder with damp cloth.
Repeat these steps for the rest of the joints in your project requiring soldering. When all soldering is finished and the pipes have cooled, turn the water on and check for leaks.
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