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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: About one week, but varies widely
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Caulk for outdoor use and caulking gun
Wire brush, scraper, or sander (as needed)
Goggles, heavy gloves and a dust mask or respirator (while scraping and sanding)
Drop cloths
Plastic work buckets
Painting trays
Exterior house and trim paint
Stirring sticks
Paint can opener
Ladders or scaffolding
Pothook or extension ladder shelf
Brushes (1-1/2 inch trim and 4-inch wider good to high quality brushes, appropriate for the type of paint being used)
Roller handles and covers, appropriate for exterior painting
Pad painters, as needed
Extension pole, as needed
Masking tape
Clean rags
Old clothes
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Newspaper
Razor scraper to remove paint from glass, as needed
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Preparing the Surface
The hardest, and most important, part of painting a house is preparing the surface to accept the paint. For a paint job to be successful, you must first fix problems such as leaks; repair damaged wood; remove loose paint (using a scraper or wire brush, or for larger jobs, a sander); and clean the surface, removing dirt and mildew. (At the sanding/scraping stage, always wear heavy work gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask or respirator.) Countersink any exposed nailheads you encounter while scraping or sanding, and then fill the depressions with putty suitable for outdoor use. Caulk areas around windows, doors and construction joints as needed to prevent air and water from entering the house. Some caulk cannot be painted; use these on areas that are not readily visible. Once these tasks have been finished, you're almost guaranteed a good paint job.
After the surface has been prepared thoroughly, you'll need to apply primer. Primer allows the finish paint to stick to the painted surface. Purchase primer that is appropriate for the material to be painted. Read the manufacturer's specifications for the optimum time between priming and applying the top coat. With some primers, you can recoat in a matter of hours. With others, you can wait a few weeks. But don't wait too long, because if the primer is allowed to weather for an extended period, the finish paint will not adhere to it effectively.
Working with Latex Paint
A popular choice for house paint is latex. Once it's dry, its rubbery film clings tenaciously to the house and adjusts better than oil-based paints to flexing from changes in temperature and humidity. It can also cost less than oil-based paint, cleans up simply with soap and water, and does not release as many volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are in the gaseous forms of the solvents that evaporate from the paint. Some VOCs are known health and environmental threats; while others are strong suspects.
Latex paint is fussy about the weather, however:
* Temperature: Painting a home with latex paint is best done during a sunny, temperate week. Keep in mind that when latex dries too fast, it won't adhere properly, may produce uneven glossiness, and may gum up your brushes and rollers. So avoid hot, windy days which hasten drying and, if it's warmer than 70 degrees Fahrenheit, avoid painting in direct sunlight (Fig. 1).
But if it's a cool day (between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit), go ahead and paint in step with the sun as it moves around the house to speed drying. Be aware that regular latex does not cure below 45 degrees, and paint applied in that condition may not adhere to the house--it may just peel off. If you must paint at cooler temperatures, there are special latex paints that work better under those conditions.
* Moisture: Because water's the solvent for latex, rain or dew can blister or wash the paint away if it hasn't had a chance to dry. Latex paint can be applied while the surface is slightly damp, but not when obviously wet.
Using Ladders and Scaffolding
You may already have set up a ladder or scaffolding when you prepped the exterior. If so, you'll know that while many one-story homes require only an 8-foot stepladder, taller houses demand a 16-, 20- or 24-foot extension ladder or scaffolding. Scaffolding can be obtained from a tool rental facility, or you may have a scaffolding contractor assemble the scaffolding and disassemble it when the job's done, though this can be expensive. (And in this case, you might want to look into the costs for hiring a painting contractor to paint the house instead, or at least those areas out of reach. It just might be less expensive and quicker.)
Caution: Do not work near live electrical wires, and be very careful when moving metal ladders or scaffolds near the area. If the wiring will be in the way when working on the house, call the utility company and have the service wires from the utility pole to the house disconnected.
Calculating Paint Coverage
Many factors, including the area, type, and texture of the surface; how well it has been prepared; and the application technique, will affect the amount of paint needed. Check the back of the can for approximate coverage. The first coat will take more paint than the second. Slightly overestimate the number of cans you'll need, as you usually can return unopened cans to the retailer unless the paint is a custom blend, and you may want to keep a can or two for later touchups.
One Coat or Two?
A first-time paint job on raw wood or siding usually requires two coats over the primer coat. If you're repainting a house in a hue similar to its existing color, one coat may suffice. However, two coats may be required when painting a light color over a dark one. On older houses, it's often a good idea to limit the paint job to one coat (if possible) because the more coats of paint on the house, the more likely the paint is to peel. If you must apply only one coat in a paint job, look for paints that guarantee one-coat success.
The Painting Process
Depending on the material you'll be painting (stucco, wood shingles, hardboard, etc.), the type of paint and primer, the applicators (such as various types of brushes and rollers, pads, or a paint sprayer), and the techniques will vary. For best results, buy the best paint and applicators you can afford.
The following are guidelines for painting wooden lap siding.
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1.
Prepare the Work Area
Prune or tie back shrubbery and branches that may be in the way (you also may cover them with old sheets or certain lightweight drop cloths; heavyweight canvas cloths may damage the plants, while plastic drop cloths may "cook" them if left on too long). Using more drop cloths, cover all steps, walkways, porch floors, decks, patios, and other surfaces you want to protect in the area where you are currently working. (Fig. 2)
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Position the Ladder
Position the ladder at the highest corner of the house and attach either a pothook to hold your work can or an extension ladder shelf for your roller tray.
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Prepare the Paint
If you're using a brush, pour about 1/2 gallon of paint from the original can into a work bucket and hang it on the pothook. If you're using a roller, fill the roller tray until the sloped bottom is about half covered and position it on the ladder shelf.
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4.
Start the First Section
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Paint one section at a time, with the area of each section determined by your reach (a comfortable reach may be about 3 feet). Use a trim brush or narrow trim roller to paint a narrow strip around windows and the bottom edges of the first course of siding (Fig. 3) before you start with the roller or larger brush. Then:
* If you're using a brush, start at the highest point; use the broad side of the brush to paint the front of the siding, moving horizontally. As you work, be careful to dip the brush into the can only about half the length of the bristles, and remove excess paint by gently tapping the side of the can with the brush. Lay the paint on the siding, and then brush it out using horizontal strokes. (Fig. 4)
* If you're using a roller, start at the highest point, and use a 1-inch trim roller or a 1-inch brush to cover the border of the front of the siding. To avoid lap marks (a noticeably thicker area of paint where two coats of paint overlap and dry at different rates), quickly follow the smaller strokes with the strokes from a larger roller, filling in the rest of the area on the face of the siding. Follow directions provided by the roller manufacturer, if included, as to how to load and prepare the roller. Paint at a steady, rapid pace, moving the roller back and forth over the section with even pressure.
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5.
Finish All Sections
Proceed down the side of the house, in successive matching sections. Don't stop on your downward course until you reach a window or door; don't stop on your horizontal course until you have reached a window, door, or corner. This prevents a splotchy, uneven look to the paint job.
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6.
Paint the Doors
Paint the doors with either a brush or roller in the following order: 1) molded edges, 2) horizontal crossboards, and 3) vertical sideboards. If there's glass in the door, protect its perimeter from errant paint with masking tape.
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7.
Paint the Window Frames
Paint window frames with a brush in the following order: 1) mullion (vertical trim separating two or more closely spaced windows) 2) horizontal sash, 3) vertical sash, 4) vertical framing, 5) horizontal framing, and 6) sill. Protect all glass edges with masking tape before applying paint, or use a razor scraper after application to remove any paint on the glass.
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