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Using paint, ragging techniques, and a few humble rags, you actually can create the smooth, flowing textures of fine materials such as vellum, brushed suede, crushed velvet, and soft leather.
Ragging is fairly easy to execute and results are more refined than those of sponging. Soft, lint-free cloth (usually cheesecloth) is either bunched or folded in the hand and used to apply or lift off wet glaze.
The final effect depends on the kind of cloth used, the pressure with which it's worked over the glaze, and the glaze's glossiness and translucence. An incredible variety of looks may be achieved by using different materials as your "rag." Experiment with old sheets and towels, lace, plastic bags, newspaper, burlap, carpet padding, chamois, and canvas.
Although the most successful ragging techniques use a light-colored glaze over a paler base coat, bright, contrasting colors will yield equally fine results if carefully worked.
Preparing the "Rag"
Ragging on means simply pouncing a crumpled rag (or other material) dipped in glaze over the base coat to create a pattern. Rag-rolling off entails first completely covering the base coat with glaze by brush or roller, and then lifting (rolling) off the wet glaze with clean, crumpled materials to reveal the base coat and create a textured look.
The following are tips on how to prepare the rag and surface, and how to perform the technique.
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1.
Cut the Material
Cut the cloth (or other material) into large squares. If you're using cloth, use scissors to cut it; don't rip the fabric or you may have to contend with lint, frayed ends, and loose threads.
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2.
For Rag-Rolling On
Tuck in the cut ends and bunch the cloth so that it makes a soft, relaxed ball in your hand. (Fig. 1)
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3.
For Rag-Rolling Off
Tuck in the cut ends, and then loosely roll the fabric into a cylindrical shape. (Fig. 2)
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4.
Additional Hints
Carefully prepare the surface, making sure you fill all cracks, even hairline cracks (Fig. 3). Ragging techniques use a thin glaze that can easily seep into and highlight the wall's imperfections.
Protect the adjoining surfaces. Use painter's masking tape to cover adjoining surfaces such as walls, ceilings, and trim. This tape's microporous edge seals well enough that glaze can't seep under it.
As you work each section, dip the flat side of a decorator brush into the glaze, and cut into the corners and borders. Immediately glaze that wall, working back into the corners. Blend the brush strokes using a roller.
Keep a wet edge at all times. It's best to start a new section a little beyond the wet edge and work back into it. This technique keeps the joints between sections from developing an unwanted dark line.
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