Project Difficulty:
Moderate Estimated
Project Time: Varies with the size of the roofing project
Tools and Materials:
Hammer or roofing hammer
Pneumatic stapler (optional) and staples Zinc-coated nails
Shingles
Nailing Shingles Properly
Shingles typically are attached with four nails; one at each end and one above each tab slot. In windy areas, some roofers use six nails, adding one to either side of each tab slot. (Fig. 1)
Note that nails are positioned just beneath the adhesive, but above the tops of the slots. Nails also must be long enough to penetrate the sheathing by 3/4 inch. This rule applies whether fastening the shingles to a new roof or to a reroof.
Whether you choose to hammer nails or apply staples driven by a pneumatic gun, the following tips will help you achieve a secure fastening job.
Tips for Fastening Shingles
* Use zinc-coated nails to prevent corrosion.
* Avoid exposing fasteners. Each row of shingles must cover the fasteners of the previous course.
* Do not drive the fastener so deep that its head breaks the surface of the shingle.
* A nail that penetrates too easily may work its way out. Remove it and seal the hole.
* Always drive fasteners in straight so that the heads lay flat. Nail heads that stick up at an angle can wear through the shingle above.
* If the fastener does not penetrate properly remove it, patch the deck, and drive another fastener nearby.
* Do not nail into or above an adhesive strip.
1.
How to Align a Shingle Correctly
Nothing is more frustrating than hammering four to six nails into a shingle, and then discovering that the shingle is crooked. The procedure below will help you align the shingle correctly the first time.
1) Begin by aligning the upper corner of the shingle in hand with the upper corner of the shingle already in place. Tack a nail to hold it in place. (Fig. 2)
2) Position the opposite end of the shingle. (Some people do this by simply eyeballing where the tab hits the shingle on the previous course. Others use the gauge built into a roofing hammer.) Tack it in place. (Fig. 3)
3) Give the shingle a quick double-check for alignment. Then, beginning from the left (if you are right-handed), nail the first tacked nail home and work across the course, carefully flattening out bulges. If necessary, remove one of the tacked nails to eliminate buckling. (Fig. 4)
2.
Tips for Using a Regular Hammer
Professional roofers who nail by hand are a vanishing breed. Do-it-yourselfers have two options. If you are able to set aside a block of time to complete the roof in one go, you can rent a pneumatic stapler (ask the rental dealer to demonstrate safe use of the equipment). However, renting equipment results in added expenses and the additional time it takes to learn how to use that equipment. Breaking out a simple hammer is often the better choice. The following is a professional nailing technique that speeds a hammering job.
1) Hold a dozen or so nails loosely in your hand. Using only one hand, work a nail around so that it hangs head up between your fingers.
2) Position the nail on the shingle using the nail hand only. Nail it. (Fig. 5)
3) While one hand is nailing, the other hand is busy readying the next nail.
3.
Tips for Using a Roofing Hammer
A roofing hammer speeds up any roofing job and, although it is a relatively expensive tool, it is worth the investment for a large roofing job. A roofing hammer's heavy weight is an advantage for quickly whacking nails home, but be careful of its serrated head which is especially hard on fingers if you miss the nail.
With a built-in course gauge set according to the exposure desired, this hammer is far more precise and much faster than simply eyeballing the top of the shingles. The guide pin can be set in any one of the several holes for the desired course depth. (Fig. 6)
Hook the pin on the course below and let the bottom edge of the shingle rest against the heel of the hammer. (Fig. 7)
The hatchet side of the hammer is designed for splitting wood shingles to size. It is less useful for composition shingles, but is still good for chopping out old roofing cement or flashing. (Fig. 8)
