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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: 2 days for a 12 x 18-foot area
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Joint compound
4-, 10-, and 14-inch taping knives
Paper drywall joint tape
Inside corner knife (optional)
Metal edge trim (such as corner bead)
Aviation snips
Drywall nails
Hammer
100-grit sandpaper (or drywall sanding mesh)
Floodlight
Universal pole sander (optional)
Safety goggles
Dust mask or NIOSH-approved respirator
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The most important and difficult aspects of installing drywall are taping and jointing. All of the seams, nail dimples, and other imperfections must be thoroughly concealed. Even small dimples and ridges will show through wall finishes such as paint and wallpaper.
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1.
Fill the Flat Joints
Using a 4-inch taping knife, apply joint compound over the joint, forcing enough into the tapered drywall edge to bring it level with the nontapered edge of the adjoining sheet (Fig. 1). Fill the joint, creating a slight hump that will be flattened later.
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2.
Embed the Joint Tape
Cut a length of paper drywall tape, and then center one end of it over the joint. Embed the tape, using a 4-inch taping knife, and then smooth it into the compound (Fig. 2). Spread a layer of compound about 1/8-inch thick over the tape, while holding the knife at a 45-degree angle. Go over the joint once again, to scrape away any excess compound.
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3.
Finish the Inside Corners
Begin by spreading a 2- or 3-inch swath of compound on both sides of an inside corner joint. Fold a length of paper drywall tape down its perforated centerline, and then press it in to the joint. Remove excess compound (see Step 2). An angled taping knife, called an inside corner knife, makes this task easier. (Fig. 3)
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4.
Finish the Outside Corners
For outside corners, use aviation snips to cut a length of metal edge trim (corner bead) to the height of the wall. Angle the flanges inward slightly to ensure a better fit. Use drywall nails to nail the bead in place. Be sure to hammer the nails all the way in. To check the height of the nailheads, run a clean drywall knife over the bead before the compound is spread. If the nails are too high, the blade will hit them. After all the nailheads are flattened, use the edge of the bead to guide the knife as you fill the corner bead with joint compound. (Fig. 4)
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5.
Fill the Nail Dimples
Using a 4-inch taping knife, fill any nail dimples and other minor imperfections with joint compound (Fig. 5). No tape is required, though sanding will be necessary later.
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6.
Apply the Finish Coats
After the first coat has dried, inspect the joint seams, and then smooth out any ridges that will ruin the quality of the final joint. To remove ridges, use either the 4-inch taping knife to scrape them away, or sand them lightly. (With practice, your first coat will be applied smoothly enough so that you can skip this step.) Use a 10-inch taping knife, next, to apply a thin, second coat of joint compound. "Spot" any dimples once more, using the 4-inch knife. After the second coat has dried, use the 14-inch taping knife to spread the third and final coat. Spot dimples only if they are not completely filled. (Fig. 6)
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7.
Sand the Compound
Wait 24 hours. If the compound is completely dry, sand all of the joints and dimples smooth. Shine a bright floodlight across the walls to detect ridges and improperly filled nail dimples. Under the light, the imperfections will become immediately apparent. Fold a sheet of 100-grit sandpaper in quarters, and then sand the compound lightly, taking care not to sand through the drywall's paper facing. To make the work easier, use a universal pole sander. This tool has a swivel-mounted pad having clamps that hold sandpaper or drywall mesh. The pad mounts to the pole, making it handy for reaching ceilings or upper areas of walls. Sanding dust is very fine, so wear goggles and a dust mask (or respirator) when sanding. Brush or vacuum away all traces of dust before painting or papering the walls. (Fig. 7)
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