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Unlike wood, steel stud framing doesn't warp, shrink, or split. Termites and carpenter ants can't chew through it. It's much lighter than masonry, and it's easier and faster to assemble the pieces. It also won't rot, crumble, or add fuel to the fire. Because of all this, and its strength and durability (during a fire it can extend the time of possible escape before the walls collapse), steel framing is now the standard for commercial construction.
If steel offers so many advantages, why is it used in only 3 to 5 percent of residential building frames? For one thing, steel is a lot less accommodating than wood, which can often be coaxed and nudged into proper position. Steel construction also requires tools and skills quite different (though not necessarily more complicated) than wood framing, which is a disadvantage for do-it-yourselfers.
For framing an entire house, you may be better off sticking with wood studs. You need some specialized members and connectors for rafters and joists, and you have to make special accommodations to install your utilities. But for small projects like partitions and basements, steel studs are great.
Steel Framing Members
The basic steel framing member is three-sided; a 2x4 stud, for example, has two narrow 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch edges (front and back) connected by only a single 3-1/2- or 4-inch side, creating a shallow C-shape. Connectors are available in many shapes to join the three-sided framing members. Light-gauge steel thickness ranges from 12 to 25 gauge, with the lower numbers being thicker. In a typical right-angle framing joint, one side of an L-shaped bracket is screwed to each steel member to make the connection.
Handling
The edges of steel framing are rolled over during manufacturing to provide a smooth edge. But when you cut studs with a saw or snip them with shears, you should protect yourself with gloves against the sharp edges.
A water-based lubricant is often used to protect steel studs. A few days out in the weather should take care of removing it--but wear gloves when handling slippery studs.
Assembling a Steel Wall Frame
Below are some basic steps involved in assembling a nonload-bearing wall frame using light-gauge steel framing members. Keep in mind that materials and procedures will vary, depending on the work area, your project plans, local codes, etc. Study publications on basic wall-framing procedures thoroughly, and talk to your local building department before starting.
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1.
Install the Soleplate and Top Plate
Measure along the floor where you want your wall, mark the end locations and snap a chalk line. Check your measurements along the line, and then use the marking to attach the soleplate (bottom plate) to the floor.
Then, at either end of the soleplate, use a plumb bob to locate the top plate directly above. Mark those two locations on the ceiling, and then snap a chalk line through them. Check your measurements; then install the top plate along the line and secure it to the ceiling joists with screws (Fig. 1).
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2.
Installing Studs
To mark placement of each stud, measure along the top plate, and then use a plumb bob at that spot to mark the corresponding place on the soleplate. At the marks, nestle a stud into the channels of the soleplate and top plate. Check for plumb; then clamp it in position before driving your screws. (Fig. 2)
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3.
Installing Headers
There are a few methods you can use to install headers. The most basic openings--for example, framing around a doorway--normally require only a single piece of metal (single header). (Large framing members are available to carry exceptional loads.) You will also need the equivalent of wooden jack studs along the sides. Because studs are hollow and formed in a U-shape, you need to add an extra piece with the solid side facing the opening. (Fig. 3)
Installing a Header Using a 45-Degree Angle Cut
To install a single header to a stud:
1) Snip each edge of the header at a 45-degree angle. Pros can work barehanded, but you may want gloves to protect yourself from the sharp edges of the cut metal. (Fig. 4)
2) Make a connecting flange for the header by bending the overage of the header down to a 90-degree angle. (Fig. 5)
3) Fit the straight section of the header in position, tuck the overage flange around the stud, and screw it in place. (Fig. 6)
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