Creative Homeowner
   DREAM. DESIGN. CREATE. About Creative Homeowner
Our New Green Policy
ultimateplans.com - Build Your Dream Home
Award Winning Titles Sign In | Register
 
 

 
CH Book Search
  • SHOP CREATIVE
  • By Category
  • FREE NEWSLETTER
  • Sign Up

    • SPECIAL FEATURES
  • Project Search

    • MEDIA CENTER

     

     

     

    PROJECTS ONLINE: HANGING DRYWALL ON A FLAT WALL

    Project Difficulty: Moderate
    Estimated Project Time: Varies with size of wall

     
     
    Tools and Materials:

    Drywall panels
    Safety goggles
    Measuring tape
    Straightedge
    Utility knife
    Heavy-duty construction adhesive
    Caulking gun
    Drywall screws and power driver or drywall screw gun
    Drywall nails and drywall hammer
    Pry bar and block or panel lifter

     
           

    Attaching panels to a flat wall goes more quickly than to a ceiling. However, lifting and positioning the top row (or rows) still takes a good deal of energy and planning. It's only when you get to the bottom row that the job becomes relatively easy. Whether you're covering a ceiling or a wall, the same principles apply. Install the largest panel you can handle. Hold the panel firmly against the framing before fastening it in place. When sizing a panel, cut it small enough to fit without binding but large enough that it doesn't leave a gap too wide (more than about 1/4 inch) to be taped and filled easily.

     

     
     
    1. Prepare Panel and Apply Adhesive

    Cut a drywall panel to size, and then cut holes for utility boxes, pipes, and ductwork, as necessary. Rest the panel so that the face side will be facing you and the room when you position it on the wall. If required, apply heavy-duty construction adhesive to studs or furring. (Fig. 1)

    2. Place Panel on Wall

    As a rule, hang the top row first. With a helper, pick up the panel, and place it firmly against the stud wall. Wall panels should be raised upward, against the ceiling or the wall panel above it (Fig. 2). Check to see that the drywall covers just half of the stud face it will share with another panel. If necessary, rest an upper panel on nails driven into the studs until you secure it in place.

    3. Fasten Drywall to the Studs

    Apply pressure to the panel to ensure full contact with framing members, and then screw or nail it in place (Fig. 3). Drive nails using a drywall hammer. Work across either the length or width of the panel; don't nail the perimeter and then the interior. Keep at least a 3/8-inch margin between the edge of the wallboard and each nail. If you're not using an adhesive, position nails 8 inches apart on wall panels. With an adhesive, you can space them every 16 inches or so on ceilings or walls.

    Drive screws using a drywall screw gun or power driver. Work across the length or width of the panel; never screw the entire perimeter and then the interior. Again, keep each screw at least 3/8-inch in from the edge of the panel. Position screws along each edge and each framing member, spacing them every 16 inches for walls. If the panels lie perpendicular to framing, apply screws every 16 inches on the ends and edges and either 16 or 24 inches on the interior, depending on the frame spacing. When using adhesives in wall applications, space screws (both horizontally and vertically) to match the stud spacing, whether the panels lie perpendicular or parallel to the framing.

    4. Butt Lower Panel Upward

    Once you've installed the top row of panels against the ceiling, push the lower rows against them using a pry bar and block or a panel lifter (Fig. 4). Remember that it's okay to leave a gap along the bottom at floor level because the base molding will cover it.

     
    Help    |    View Cart    |    Contact Us    |    BookSellers
     
    © 2010 Creative Homeowner. All rights reserved.   
    Copyright    |    Terms of Use    |    Privacy Policy