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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: Varies with drying time
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Safety goggles
Stepladder, as needed
Joint compound
Heavy-duty drill with mixing paddle, or hand masher on 2-foot-long handle
Hawk
5" or 6" taping knife
Drywall joint tape
10" straight-handled knife
10" or 12" finishing trowel
120-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge
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Taping joints involves several steps and requires three coats of joint compound. The results of a perfect taping job should be invisible, that is, the seams should be taped and sanded so that no ridges or humps can be seen on the painted wall.
Before starting to tape, ventilate the room with fans or by allowing a cross-breeze. This will lower humidity and accelerate the drying process. Make sure that the temperature in the room remains at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit for 24 hours following application. Double-check all panels to make sure that they're firmly attached and if there are any gaps over 1/4-inch wide, fill them using setting-type joint compound, and then smooth the face of the compound flush with the drywall face. Let this dry entirely before you start the taping procedure, and if necessary, scrape off any high spots. Verify that cutouts have been made for all outlets, switches, and fixtures. Assemble tools, joint compound, and tape in one area. Double-check estimates to ensure that you have sufficient joint compound and tape. Clean and remove grit from all taping knives and trowels, and sand their faces smooth if necessary. While working, wear safety goggles to protect your eyes.
Taping Joints
All joint compounds, even the premixed types, need to be stirred before use. A well-mixed compound will go on smoothly and with fewer bubbles. Mixing also ensures that the product has a consistent water content throughout the entire batch. On the other hand, joint compound that has been overmixed will be full of air bubbles, which will pop and show up as little indentations when it dries. The only fix is to smooth down the mistake, and start again with new compound.
The best accessory for mixing joint compound is a heavy-duty drill loaded with a mixing paddle. If you prefer to mix by hand (which is better for premixed compound), use a potato-masher-type hand mixer on a 2-foot-long handle. If the product is too stiff, add small amounts of water, and agitate the mixture until it is smooth enough to apply to the wall.
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1.
Apply the First Coat
Load a hawk with joint compound. Using a 5- or 6-inch taping knife, apply a coat of joint compound to the joints, spreading it evenly to a thickness of about 1/4 inch (Fig. 1). Cover the entire length of the joint. Make sure that you completely fill any gaps between panels. Note: If you're using fiberglass mesh tape, apply it before the first coat. The compound then oozes through the mesh and binds to the wall.
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2.
Tape Over the First Coat
Working with a strip of drywall tape that ideally measures the same length as the entire joint, press the tape into the wet first coat using your fingers, being careful not to create any folds or wrinkles. Make sure that the tape centers on the joint. Using a 5- or 6-inch knife, apply light pressure to the tape, drawing the knife along its full length and squeezing joint compound out from beneath the tape as you smooth the coat. (Work backward toward you on a horizontal joint; work from top to bottom on a vertical joint.) If the tape blisters, you haven't left enough joint compound beneath it. Peel the tape back in just that section, add joint compound to the blistered area, and proceed. You should leave a thin layer of joint compound beneath the tape. (Fig. 2)
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3.
Remove Excess Joint Compound
Using the same knife, make a final pass over the tape and bedding coat to remove any excess joint compound (Fig. 3). Let this coat dry. Before applying the second (filler) coat (Step 4), use a knife to scrape or knock down any burrs or high spots that you may have missed while the tape-embedding coat was still wet. Take care not to cause gouges. If you do, apply a thin layer of joint compound to this area.
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4.
Apply the Second Coat and Remove Excess
Using a 10-inch straight-handled knife, apply a layer of joint compound as wide as the knife. Make it as smooth as you can get it, using repeat passes if necessary (Fig. 4). Let the coat dry thoroughly. Again, use a taping knife to knock down any burrs or high spots that you may have missed.
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5.
Apply the Finish Coat
Using a 10- or 12-inch finishing trowel, apply a wide finish coat to the taped joint. This should be a light skim coat, not a heavy application. Move with long steady strokes, pulling in one direction and feathering out both edges to create the smoothest possible transition to the drywall face (Fig. 5). If necessary, sand the joint using 120-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge.
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