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Project Difficulty:
Moderate
Estimated
Project Time: 1/2 day (not including setting time for glazing, and painting)
1/2 day (not including setting tim
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Glass
Measuring tape
Gloves
Glazing points
Glazing compound
Putty knife
Pliers
Screwdriver
Paint/turpentine/linseed oil
Brush
Wiping cloths
Finish paint for window trim
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For an overview of how a window is installed in a wooden frame, refer to Figure 1. This shows the glass seated in a rabbet (notch) in the window frame. The glass is secured with glazier points on the outside of the frame, and sealed along the perimeter with glazing compound. Ideally, glazing compound is also sandwiched between the glass and the interior window. Note that paint overlaps the glass by about 1/8 inch to form a moisture seal.
It’s usually simple to replace glass supported by this type of frame. Working from the outdoors side of the window, here’s how to do it.
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1.
Remove Glass
If the glass is broken enough so that you can remove sections with a gloved hand, pull these pieces out of the glazing compound that held them in the window mullions or frame.
If the glass is only cracked, do not break it out of the frame. Instead, use a putty knife to remove the glazing surrounding it (Fig. 2).
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2.
Remove Glazing
With a putty knife, remove the glazing from the frame. Start at the center and proceed to the corners, working the knife’s edge between the frame and glazing compound (See Fig. 2). Once started, you’ll be able to chip the glazing compound out of its niche.
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3.
Remove Glazier's Points
As you remove the glazing compound, most of the glazier’s points holding the glass in the frame will come out also. If not, work the glazier’s points out of the wood with the edge of your putty knife. You can also pull them out with pliers, but be careful; you don’t want to damage the frames.
Note: If the glass in your window or door is not held by glazing compound but with small strips of molding, pry out the molding--very carefully--with the tip of a putty knife or a stiff-bladed scraper.
If the molding is stubborn and you have room to insert two putty knife blades between the molding and the frame, try this:
Insert both blades flat against the molding so that one putty knife is exactly on top of the other. Then insert the tip of a screwdriver between them, and twist the handle of the screwdriver. The torque created by the screwdriver will pop the molding, and the blades of the putty knives will protect the wood from damage. When the molding is off, use pliers to remove any nails from its underside, pulling the nailheads completely through the wood. This way, you won’t split the molding and can reuse it.
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4.
Take Measurements
When the frame is free of glass, glazing, and glazier’s points, carefully measure the height and width needed for the replacement glass. Measure the frame from top to bottom and from side to side. Size the glass, subtracting about 1/16 inch on all sides between the edges of the pane and the frame, to allow for heat expansion. Bring these measurements and a sample of the broken glass to the store to make sure you buy the correct replacement glass.
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5.
Prime Wood
Using linseed oil, turpentine, or paint, prime the recess in the window frame that will hold the new glazing compound. This will help prevent raw wood in the frame from drawing oil from the compound, which can cause poor adhesion.
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6.
Add Glazing Compound
Prior to inserting the new glass, spread a 1/8-inch base of glazing compound along the base of the recess to create a seal and cushion the glass.
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7.
Insert Glass
Carefully position the new glass in the frame and apply just enough pressure to dent the glazing compound.
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8.
Insert Glazier's Points
At approximately 1-inch intervals around the glass, press glazier’s points into the wood from the outside. A metal glazing tool may be furnished with the package of points, but if not, use the tip of a putty knife to sink the points. The trick is to push the points straight down, and not at an angle (Fig. 3). Be very careful when setting points to avoid damaging the glass and frame.
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9.
Apply More Glazing Compound
Next, apply more glazing compound to seal the pane to the frame. A good way to do this is to wad some glazing into a ball and roll it between your palms so that it forms a 1/4-inch-diameter rope.
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10.
Press Glazing Compound
Press this glazing compound rope firmly along the perimeter, making sure it adheres to both the frame and the glass (Fig. 4). Then, starting at one corner of the frame and keeping your putty knife at about a 45-degree angle, press down hard on the glazing as you draw your knife towards the opposite corner (you may want to extend your index finger down the blade to increase the pressure). Try to pull the putty knife across in one long stroke all the way around the window pane. Note: If the compound sticks to the knife, wet the blade with turpentine or linseed oil.
Once this is done, the glazing should be firmly packed in the frame with about half of the glazing on the glass and half in the frame.
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11.
Paint Window
After letting the glazing set for about a week, paint the window and glazing, leaving an edge of paint on the glass to seal the glazing.
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