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Project Difficulty:
Easy
Estimated
Project Time: 1 to 2 days
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| Tools and Materials: |
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Old clothes and shoes you can throw away afterwards
Gloves
Wire brush, shop vacuum, and/or leaf blower
Stiff-bristled straw broom
Garden hose with spray nozzle
Asphalt crack filler and crack patch
Caulking gun
Asphalt pothole patch (also called cold patch)
Trowel
Shovel, as needed
Putty knife, as needed
5- or 6-foot length of 2x4 lumber, or tamping tool
Hammer and chisel
Scrap of plywood
Detergent or driveway cleaner for asphalt
Nylon scrubbing brush
Asphalt primer and brush, as needed
Driveway sealer
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Sealer applicator (such as a broom or squeegee)
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Nothing lasts forever, and certainly not the surface of an asphalt driveway. Vulnerable to freeze/thaw cycles, weed invasion, and assault from spilled or leaking gasoline or other petroleum products, asphalt driveways typically show signs of aging within a few years of installation. While you can fill small cracks as you spot them (providing the temperature's warm enough), if your driveway has become riddled with cracks, depressions, and potholes, it's time to fill, patch, and seal.
Depending on the size of problem areas, you'll need several different types of materials to repair an unsightly driveway and then protect it from normal wear and tear: crack filler for small cracks; asphalt pothole patch for larger cracks, holes and depressions; and driveway sealer to protect your driveway from the effects of sun, moisture, car fluids, and daily use. Because the driveway compounds require minimum temperatures of at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit, in many climates, this type of project is best scheduled for late spring, summer, and early fall. A few dry, warm days, and a good early start in the day will allow the patch, filler, and sealant time to begin curing correctly.
Because the project uses stainable materials that easily splatter and spill, wear pants, old shoes, and a long-sleeved shirt.
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1.
Clear Debris
Park any cars you'll need to use in the next few days out of the garage and off the driveway, but with easy access to the road.
Using a wire brush, shop vacuum, and/or leaf blower, clear away pebbles, leaves, weeds, dirt, and loose bits of asphalt from cracks in the driveway, and then sweep the driveway clean.
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2.
Wash the Driveway
If the driveway's still dusty, hose it off with water from a high-powered spray nozzle, and let it dry.
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3.
Patch Small Cracks
Patch cracks that are 1/2 inch or smaller with crack filler from caulking cartridges or plastic spout bottles. Fill the crack with filler until it's flush with the surface, and let it dry 24 hours before sealing. (Fig. 1)
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4.
Patch Large Cracks
If cracks are more than 1/2 inch wide, fill them with asphalt pothole patch applied straight from the can or bag.
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5.
Patch Depressions
For areas that are depressed rather than cracked, apply pothole patching material until the depression is filled flush with the surrounding asphalt. Smooth the patch with a trowel or putty knife, tamp the patching material down with a 5- to 6-foot length of 2x4 lumber or a tamping tool, and refill any remaining depression. Repeat the smoothing. Let the filler dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.
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6.
Fill Potholes
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1) Clear out any loose material down to a solid base, and make sure the walls of the hole are firm. Square the edges of the hole with a hammer and chisel, as necessary. Square edges provide better grip for the patching material.
2) If the hole is deeper than 4 or 5 inches, fill it partway with gravel to form a starter base for the patch.
3) Using a trowel or shovel, push about 1-1/2 to 2 inches of the asphalt pothole patch into the hole and tamp it down tightly to remove all air pockets. A short piece of 2x4 or other scrap wood will work well as a tamper. (Fig. 2)
Repeat this step until the filler's an inch from the top of the hole.
4) Fill the hole to slightly overflowing, and then tamp it down firmly. Add more patching material in small amounts, and tamp each addition down until the surface is flush with the driveway. For larger holes, you can place a piece of plywood over the patch and drive over it repeatedly with your car to tamp the patch down. (Then park the car off the driveway again.)
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7.
Allow Time to Cure
Wait the amount of time specified by the pothole patch manufacturer (this can range from 12 to 48 hours) before bringing cars back onto the driveway. You may have to wait several weeks before the patch is ready for the sealing step, so be sure to check the product specifications.
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8.
Sealing Your Driveway
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If you're sealing an asphalt driveway you've patched or recently filled, be sure you've allowed the fills and patches adequate time to dry. Because the sealer also requires drying and curing time, pick a day with no rain in the forecast. If you have a new driveway, wait six months to a year before re-sealing. Otherwise, re-seal every two or three years as needed.
1) Make sure the driveway's clear of any loose debris, dirt, grease, oil, or dust. Use a stiff-bristled broom or leaf blower to sweep it clean. If necessary, use detergent or cleaner appropriate for asphalt on any stubborn grease or oil spots, and rinse thoroughly. Seal stubborn oil spots on the driveway with asphalt primer applied with a brush. Cut away any encroaching weeds or grass sod on the edges of the driveway that could impede total coverage. Hose down the driveway to complete the cleaning job.
2) Check that the driveway is dry or just damp (not puddled) before applying the sealer. If the day is very hot, you might need to lightly hose the driveway before applying the sealer, but check the product's directions first. Grab your applicator and, starting in one corner of the driveway, spread the sealer evenly in a moderately thick coat. Allow the sealer to fill any small cracks. However, don't apply too thickly because it will take too long to dry. Work in a 3- to 4-foot area, applying the sealer thoroughly and evenly before moving on. Note: Plan your route so that you don't have to cross the newly spread area. (Fig. 3)
3) Clearly block the end of the driveway to keep cars and pedestrians off the newly-sealed area.
4) Allow the sealer to cure the manufacturer-recommended time (typically 24 to 36 hours) before driving on it. The longer you can wait, the better.
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9.
Clean-Up Time
Clean up your tools and clothing as soon as you've finished a project because it'll be hard to remove any stain or residue once it dries. Clean tools with mineral spirits, and use warm soapy water to wash any clothing you wish to reuse.
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